7/13 Entering Fury Cove 進入猛烈灣

It was the unrippled, mirror calm of the water which turned us toward Fury. We had originally set our sites further ahead, and after the tight, nerve-wracking entry to Millbrooke Cove the night before, the guidebook's description of Fury Cove was less than attractive. They said that it was difficult to locate amidst the off-lying islets, rocks, and reefs.

But just outside of Fury Cove, we were becalmed. The water went glassy and the swell coming in from Queen Charlotte Sound set our boat rocking and our sails slatting. The horrendous sound of loose sail filling with a pop on one side and then the other as the boat rocks on the swells, is irritating to the point of madness. I was on the verge staring the engine and motoring in when a touch of breeze came up, quieted the boat down, and got us moving again.

We headed straight for Fury Cove. As we neared the entry, the wind picked up further and moved us at an exhilarating pace. What a tremendous relief to be sailing again! Just then, Jiayu spotted a fin whale surfacing and spouting behind us, we fllirted briefly with the idea of turning around to spend time with the whales, but fearful of losing our breeze, we sailed straight in on this possibly last puff of evening breeze.

We made the best of it, riding full speed for the harbor. As we got closer, it was time to slow the boat down. Not wanting to risk even an one additional tack, lest the breeze leave us again, I ran forward and executed my fastest head sail change to date while Jiayu pinched the boat just slightly, slowing us down enough so we would not make the entry until our smaller, working jib was up.

With our jib up, the boat proceded at a more reasonable pace for traversing the rocks and reefs. The smaller sail also makes us much more maneuverable, being quicker to handle in a small space where shifty, land-reflected wind can come from any direction.

Despite the guidebook's warnings to the contrary, we found the entrance to be wide, easy to spot, and far less challenging than many places we have entered.

The poorly named Fury Cove is instead tranquil, serene, and beautiful.



（翻譯）


平靜無波、一如鏡面的海況帶我們來到憤怒灣。我們原新預計更往北前進。而且，昨晚進入米布灣讓我們汗毛豎立的經驗，加上航行指南對於憤怒灣的描述讓我們退步三舍。指南上說憤怒灣遍佈的小島、礁岩、讓入口難以辨識。

在憤怒灣外，風意外停止。海面如鏡，但是夏綠蒂皇后海峽的湧浪搖動著我們的船、帆布左右不停拍打。鬆垮帆布批哩啪啦的聲響，加上船上上下下的擺動簡直叫人瘋狂。就在我幾乎開啟引擎時，一陣微風吹來，平息船的擺動，讓我們得以繼續前進。

我們直接航向憤怒灣。在我們接近入口時，風逐漸加大，船以欣喜的速度前進。能夠再度航行真讓我大鬆一口氣！就在同時，Jiayu瞥見船尾遠方有一隻鯨魚浮出海面換氣。我們短暫的沈浸在回頭觀看鯨魚的想法，但是擔心微風不知何時會停止，我們趁著傍晚可能維繫的最後一股輕風航向入口。

我們盡可能的利用此風，全速駛向港灣。在接近港灣時，需要減慢船速。我不願意增加任何航行時間，擔心微風隨時會離開我們，所以我全速跑向船首，以至今為有過的快速度更換前帆。Jiayu則是稍微將船向風的方向移動，將船速適度降低，直到我們的小前帆升起，船剛好在港灣的入口。

小前帆讓我們的保持合理船速在岩石與礁塊中穿梭，在狹窄空間以及風隨地形不斷轉換的地點轉舵時也更容易控制。

與航行指南的描述相反，我們發現憤怒灣的入口寬敞，容易指認。相較於我們曾進入的許多港灣來的容易。

憤怒灣名不符實，灣內安逸、寧靜而美麗。