Sunday, August 17, 2008

7/13-7/16 同在異鄉為異客 Unexpected Companions


我們意外的停泊在憤怒灣,意外的在這裡感受到地球村與鄉土情。

卡力獨自一人選擇首次就挑戰所有航行者所夢想與踟躇挑戰的溫哥華島西岸,他在航行12小時之後,意外的被西北風帶到這裡。和他聊天似乎看到孩子進入玩具反斗城一般,西岸嚴峻的天候考驗、漫長的跨岸航行在他口中都充滿刺激、興奮、與有趣,套句他的口頭禪,危險密佈的礁石、被強風硬是吹的連根拔起的船錨、使他的船奮鬥數小時都無法前進一哩的強風都是:「哇~超酷!」。我很享受他帶給我們的熱情與興奮,溫哥華島的西岸經他介紹下充滿迷人風情,他的熱情也讓精疲力竭的我重新喚起一些力量,但我卻無法如他般浪漫、隨性的看待我們的航行。
潮洲叔則是到目前為止遇見的第二個亞洲人。在哈帝港有一個處理鮭魚高手的北京女子,與丈夫週末來補鮭魚回家添菜。遇到另一個中國女子我當然滿心雀躍,不料此女就事論事,她雖好心的留了鮭魚頭給我們作為補螃蟹的餌,卻只願與我說英文,一副點到為止、莫測高深。

潮洲叔完全相反。

在憤怒灣聽到船友提及停泊在後方的漁船上僅有一位友善、但英文不太好的中國人。我和Rob二話不說划著小舟前往打招呼。潮洲叔看來神采奕奕,他忙著用機器篩選剛補上的蝦子,卻高興我們的到訪。

我們三人以四種不同語言溝通──普通話、潮洲話、台灣話(潮洲話有些和台語相通)、英文。有時誰也不知道誰用什麼語言說了什麼,但殷切希望溝通的心意卻充斥其間。

我們決定告別時,潮洲叔問我們要不要蝦子。Rob和我都以為他要賣蝦子給我們,沒想到他提起一大塑膠籃,面不改色的說:「拿去!」。我和Rob面面相覷。幾十斤的蝦子就這樣要送給我們。我們告知船上沒有冰箱,實在處理不了那麼多。他拿了我們的鍋子,倒滿了一整鍋給我們。

生平第一次「擁有」那麼多蝦子,我們想了一想,先包了一大包划小舟給卡力送去。我拿出表哥送的上好梨山茶,倒了半袋讓Rob再拿回去給潮洲叔喝。Rob回到船上,滿臉又是感動又是無奈的苦笑,手裡則又多了十幾隻大明蝦!

當天晚上,我按照潮洲叔的指示,將近滿鍋的蝦子全部蒸熟以便儲存。忙到幾乎半夜。剛蒸起的蝦子鮮甜至極,我們倆人雖已吃過晚餐,卻一隻接一隻的把蝦子送進肚裡。

第二天中午,我用一半的蝦仁做了像漢堡肉的蝦餅,Rob用剩餘的蝦仁做了泰式海鮮酸辣湯,大明蝦則做成燉飯。借著潮洲叔的好意,我們以蝦子大餐慶祝了旅程的中間站。中飯後,我做了檸檬椰子蛋糕,決定等潮洲叔回來給他送去。

將近七點時,他漁船噗噗噗的引擎聲在我們船邊響起,我探頭打招呼,他舉起一條粉紅的石鯛魚說:「要不要,給你們?」然後咚!咚!咚!三隻石鯛魚就往我們小舟一丟,然後漁船緩慢轉身在離我們不遠處下錨。

我用水桶裝起鯛魚。回到船艙後,我告訴Rob我想家了。在海的另一邊,我的舅舅、舅媽、阿姨、表哥、表嫂們就像潮洲叔一樣,開朗與熱情,因可以不斷的給予而感到快樂。他們以豐富的食物傳達關愛,雖不需太多溝通交流卻感受到濃濃的情意!

[Translation]

We accidentally landed at Fury Cove and accidentally met a couple fellow travelers.

Kahlid is the first African American we've meet on this trip. He came up the west side of Vancouver Island by himself. After battling northwest winds in Queen Charlotte Sound for 12 hours, he changed his mind and decided to go up the sheltered route and found himself here. Talking to him is like watching a child in a toy store. For him the west coast is nonstop excitement and challenge, from inclement weather. In his animated way he went on about the long passages, the dangers of the rocks, the time the wind blew him until his anchor dragged, or blew so hard from the north that hew could make no forward progress. “It's so cool!” he exclaimed. I really enjoyed his enthusiasm. In his description, the west coast of Vancouver Island is full of enchangingly beautiful scenery. His energy also helped revive me from my fatigue. But I have no way to be as romantic as him, just diving into our trip with so little forethought.

***

We also met the second Asian person that we've seen on this coast, a shrimp fisherman from Chao Zhou China. At Port Hardy we previously met a Chinese immigrant originally from Beijing. She was deftly cleaning the salmon she and her husband had caught. I was of course excited to meet another Chinese woman, but she kept her eyes on her work, and despite being kind enough to leave us a salmon head for our crab trap, would only speak English with me. She was very terse in her utterances. I have no way to know what she was thinking.

But the shrimper from Chao Zhou was her exact opposite.

We heard from another boater in the anchorage that the fishing boat sharing the cove with us was skippered by a very friendly Chinese man. Rob and I rowed right over to say hello. He was there working, full of energy and very busy sorting the days catch. Despite his work load, he was very happy to see us.

The three of us used four different languages to communicate, Mandarin, Chao Zhou, Taiwanese, and English. The Chao Zhou and Taiwanese languages are close enough that, like Spanish and Italian, can be mutually understood with enough effort. Sometimes none of us knew what the others were saying. But our desire to communicate triumphed.

When we were ready to leave, the shrimper offered us some shrimp. We thought he was going to sell them to us. Instead he offered us a large basket of shrimp and said, “Here, have these.” Rob and I just looked at each other. He was trying to give us nearly 20 pounds of shrimp. We explained that we had no refrigerator or ice and that they would go to waste. So, he filled our pressure cooker to the brim with shrimp. Even then we weren't sure how we would eat all of them.

I've never in my life had this much shrimp on my hands. We thought for a moment and then rowed a big bag of shrimp over to Kahlid. Then I took some top quality Li Shan tea that my cousin had given me and had Rob take it over to the shrimper. Rob came back touched and moved, with a face showing a strained smile. By way of explanation he held up a large bag of mammoth BC prawns.

That night we cooked the shrimp according to the shrimpers instructions, steaming an full to the brim pot of shrimp so they would keep overnight. We worked until nearly midnight. The fresh shrimp were so good and so sweet that we ate one after another despite our already full stomachs.

The next day, I used half the shrimp to make shrimp cakes. Rob used the other half in a Thai seafood soup. We used the prawns to top our risotto. Thanks to the Chao Zhou shrimper's generosity, we had a shrimp feast to mark the halfway point of our journey. After lunch, I made a lemon coconut cake to give to him in return.

When he returned from fishing at 7:00 pm he brought his boat alongside. I popped my head out to say hello. He picked up a red snapper and asked, “Do you want some fish?” Three fish, one after another, boom, boom, boom landed in our dinghy. He turned his boat and slowly went far enough away to drop his anchor.

I used a bucket to carry the fish back to the boat, and told Rob that I missed home. Here on the other side of the ocean, I missed my aunts, uncles, and cousins. They are all just like the Chao Zhou shrimper, warm, generous, and taking happiness in life. They use generous gifts to express their affection without much verbal communication to show their warmth and good will clear.