Thursday, July 17, 2008

6/29 - 7/1 Waddington Bay 瓦丁灣




The passage from Farewell Harbor to Waddington Bay is my favorite to date. We made the entire passage, from anchor up to anchor down entirely under sail and didn't start the engine again until we were becalmed mid-way through a 30 mile passage to Port hardy five days later.

The sailing was spectacular. We sailed to windward, downwind and across the wind, in winds ranging from 15 knots to 0. We ghosted down a channel watching for which parts of the channel were most often visited by whispers of wind, and we transited passages between submerged rocks and reefs in two knots of current balancing wind, water and timing.

We anchored beautifully, set the hook well, and were immediately under the spell of Waddington Bay. The hundreds of starfish, the eagles, the woodpeckers--this bay was everything we had hoped for. We hung out for a couple days and enjoyed both a taste of laziness and the joy of being back underway and back in nature. Town was good, but now we're on the hook again and it feels good.

This passage was a real turning point for us. Despite moments of being becalmed and having to work our way through some difficult light winds both in transit and entering the bay, neither of us ever had any desire to start the engine. It feels great to finally be sailing, to simply accept the jobs that need to be done to make passages under sail.

As we came in, looking for our ideal spot, the sudden sound of our clicking winch brought one fellow boater darting into his cockpit. We came in so silently, he had no idea we were right beside him until we re-trimmed our sails.

Jiayu and I have become a strong sailing team, and it felt great to be making sail adjustments together, dexterously bringing our craft to rest.

We are both in love with the Broughtons. We dinghied out together among the islets just stunned by the beauty of this place. I would love to simply spend a month in the Broughtons, altenating smooth-water tactical sail passages with long days at anchor in some of the most beautiful waters I've seen yet.

(翻譯)
惜別灣到瓦丁灣的旅程是目前為止我的最愛。從起錨、航行、到再度下錨,完全在昇帆狀態下完成。我們直到五天後在30英里長距離的旅程中才再度開啟引擎。

這段航程實在太棒了!我們順風、逆風、側風航行,經歷無風到15節海風。我們鬼影般穿梭於其中一個水道,緊緊跟隨著飄忽不定的微風;我們在時速二海里的水流中,穿越暗藏的岩塊與礁石。在風、水流與時間中找尋平衡。

我們完美的下錨,船錨穩固抓住水底。我們立刻炫惑於瓦丁灣懾人的美景。數以百計的海星、白頭鷹、啄木鳥──這個海灣是我們夢中所求。我們停留二天,淺酌於慵懶時刻與沈浸於再度航行與身處大自然。文明城鎮固然有其好處,但是現在,我們再度啟航,感覺真棒。

這趟航程是我們的轉捩點。即是有無風時刻,或面對飄渺不定的微風,我們二人都毫無慾望開啟引擎。能夠真正以帆航行感覺真好,僅僅接受在昇帆情況之下需要面對的挑戰並完成。

在我們駛入停泊點,尋找我們理想的下錨處時,我們帆索絞盤運作的聲音讓其他停泊者伸頭出艙一探究竟。我們安靜的入灣,他們絲毫沒有察覺我們的抵達,一直到調整風帆的聲響驚覺他們。

Jiayu和我已經成為一堅強航行團隊。我喜歡我們一同整理風帆,身手矯健的將船安頓。

我們二人都愛上的布勞頓群島。我們一起划著小舟在岩石群中穿梭,為此美景而震攝。我會希望可以在這裡停留一個月,練習平靜水域具挑戰性的航行,以及停泊於未曾造訪的美麗水域。